How is fashion and appearance central to
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II. WOMEN - SOCIAL AGENDA AND FASHION
The work of Goldman, Heath and Smith (1991) analyzed the images of women in fashion magazine advertising and stated there were indications of an internally contradictory hegemonic process an ongoing dialectic between dominant and oppositional discourse. (Goldman, Heath and Smith, 1991) Crane states that fashion has always had a social agenda for women, and clothing behavior is always socially motivated. (Crane, 2001) For example conservative was the protocol in the nineteenth century based on a conception of womens roles that was widely shared however in the 1920 and 1960s the protocol was of a progressive nature that served to reshape the appearance of women in keeping with changes in their social roles and in the rest of society. (Roberts, 1994; as cited in Crane, 2001)
III. SOCIAL IDENTITY & TODAYS FASHION
Crane holds that the fashion of today has several diverse and inconsistent agendas, ranging from representations that echo sadomasochism and pornography to portrayals of women as empowered and androgynous. (2001) According to Crane the manner in which people perceive the social structure and conceptualize their identities within it has changed in the course of the twentieth century. (2001)
The social
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